Category Archives: Chilcott’s Ck

Chilcott’s Creek bridge assembly – Part VI …

Hi all,

A brief update on some more progress on the Chilcott’s Creek bridge scene.

The bridge abutments are now fixed in position, and most of the foam is also fixed down.

 

I also did some more weathering to the bridge piers.  Following on from the previous Part V post, the rust streaking was done using oil paints and turps to drag the colours down the piers.

layout_construction_307

I’m quite happy with the results with some more work to be done.

Cheers.

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Chilcott’s Creek bridge assembly – Part V …

Hi all,

I have recently been redoing the weathering on the Chilcott’s Ck bridge abutments and piers. I wasn’t happy with my first attempt using the acrylic crayon powders quite a while ago.  So, this time using oil paints, I applied an all over light grey colour using a stippling brush and I think it has produced a neat effect.  Then using other colours like black, white and more grey, I have again stippled over the top for a random effect.  For the rust staining, I used the oils again but washed them down with turps.  Again pretty happy with the results so far.

abutment weathering take 2

abutment weathering take 2

 

I have also finished the “base” grey coat on the piers and will let that dry before moving onto the rust staining.

pier weathering take 2

 

I have also made some more progress on the Chilcott’s Ck bridge scene over the last few days.  A slight change of plans to what I mentioned previously, in that I have decided to fix the timber sub-module base in place then add the scenery foam around and on top of it.  The abutments will then be fixed in place, along with the piers.  Scenery including dirts and grasses will then be applied, and hopefully some ‘water’ in the creek!  The bridge span will then be fixed in place once all this has been completed.  Pictures show all the foam pieces and the sub-module base temporarily in place.

A plywood base was fixed in place to provide support for the foam.

plywood base and sub-module in place

 

With the bridge sub-module sitting in place, a jigsaw of various pieces of foam were cut to fit.  First off were two pieces front and back to continue the creek bed, which was drawn in and then routed out to the same depth as on the timber sub-module.

creek bed foam in place

 

Then other pieces of foam were cut and shaped to fit the previously made pieces under the bridge.

 

The last two pictures show the bridge span and piers temporarily in place to give an idea of how the scene will look.  Final shaping of the foam will be done when the pieces are fixed down.

Cheers.

Chilcott’s Creek bridge assembly – Part IV …

Hi all,

Recently I have continued work on the Chilcott’s Creek bridge scene.

Back in December 2014, I made a post where I had started to weather the bridge piers and abutments.

I was never really happy with how the colour on the abutments had turned out, so I decided to redo them.

Using some new oil based paints and some new techniques, I mixed up a new lighter colour of grey and applied to the abutments.  I am happy so far with the result.  The paint was stippled on and has given a rougher surface appearance.  I’ll redo the rust stains as well.  I think I will also redo the piers.

I also added the small extensions to the wingwalls.

re-done abutment weathering

re-done abutment weathering

 

The plan was always to build the bridge on a sub-assembly and then slot it into place.  As the base of the sub-module needed to be near to perfectly flat, I decided to laminate a piece of 3-ply to another piece of hardwood.  I roughly marked out the future riverbed and removed the first layer of ply using a router.  My idea is to eventually try my hand at some model water.

Chilcott's Creek riverbed

Chilcott's Creek riverbed

 

I have also started on forming the scenery around the bridge.  The idea is to form up the base scenery foam, add the dirts, grasses etc then assemble the bridge, fix the sub-assembly into the layout, levelling up as I go.  Anyway, we’ll soon see if that plan works!!

Scenery forming around bridge

Scenery forming around bridge

Scenery forming around bridge

The last photo shows the bridge & piers temporarily in place.  You get the idea!!

 

Some months ago I started laying tieplates on the bridge and have fixed one rail in place.  I had been thinking of ways to do it easily, including making a jig, but Andrew suggested I just line them up against a straight edge.

The frets of the tieplates were masked off where the base of the rail sits, painted with some Krylon flat brown paint, then dusted a ‘rusty’ colour with some powders.

The underside of the tieplates were then coated with Pliobond glue.

sleeper plate masking

sleeper plates painted

 

The individual tieplates were then cut out and located on the transoms, one at the end and the other about 40 transoms away.  Using a soldering iron, the tieplates are bonded to the transoms. The heat activates the Pliobond.  This then gave me two points to line the straight edge against.  The straight edge was clamped to the bridge.  More tieplates were then bonded to the transoms.  The process was repeated along the bridge.

laying out the sleeper plates

bonding the sleeper plates to the transoms

 

The next step was to fix one length of rail to this first run of tieplates.  This was done by applying the Pliobond to the underside of the rail as well as the tops of the tieplates, then locating the rail in position and carefully applying heat to the top of the rail using an old clothes iron and gradually moving along the length of the bridge.  The bond appears to be OK so far.

The plan is to then, using gauges, locate more tieplates underneath the second rail and repeat the above process.

Enjoy!

More foam roadbed & CV track installation …

Hi all,

I have completed installation of the foam roadbed all the way from Chilcott’s Ck almost to Ardglen.  I have also laid quite a bit more CV track base from Chilcott’s Ck through Kankool to just before the first peninsula.

The process was the same as outlined here when I did the Temple Court section.

Under where the turnouts are located at Kankool, I laid 3mm cork down instead of the foam.  This was done to make it easier cutting out a hole for the future throwbar rather than trying to cut it out of the soft foam.  In hindsight, I probably only needed a small section of cork directly under the toe of each turnout rather than under the whole turnout.  That is what I will do on future turnouts.

cork laid under turnouts

cork laid under turnouts

 

Taking on board an idea from Andrew, I also commenced installing strips of the high density yellow foam to the sides of the spline.  The idea here is to lay continuous foam strips along the spline to not only allow for shaping the trackbed, ballast profile and drainage, but to also make it easier to install the main scenery foam later on, rather than trying to cut many small irregularly shaped foam pieces to try and fit against the spline.

scenery foam strips attached to spline

 

Cheers.

Chilcott’s Ck bridge transoms – Part III …

Hi all,

Today I made another jig to enable application of white paint on the ends of the transoms.

Up until a few days ago, I had no idea as to why the ends were painted white, but after obtaining some info from two fellow modellers, it appears it was a form of timber preservation treatment.

Transom jig for painting white ends

The simple jig was made from styrene strip and it sat over the transom leaving a six inch piece exposed at the end.  Some acrylic white paint was then dry brushed on the top, sides and end of each transom.  The resultant finish I think looks like the white paint has been there a few years.

The following two pictures show the finished result.

Finished transoms with white ends

Finished transoms with white ends

Cheers.

Chilcott’s Ck bridge transoms – Part II …

Hi all,

Transom installation is now complete on the Chilcott’s Ck bridge.

After the initial staining mentioned in the previous post, I thought the transoms ended up a bit too light, so I attacked them with some of the crayon powders, and I think they look heaps better.  The plan is to do more weathering using the powders after the rails have been installed.

I had thought a fair bit on what type of glue to use for fixing the transoms to the girders, and after seeking advice from fellow modellers, I decided to use Tarzan’s Grip.  I had thought about using 5 minute Araldite, but there’s just not enough working time with the stuff, and the normal Araldite takes hours to completely set.  The Tarzan’s Grip cures in thirty minutes and remains usable for about ten minutes.

There are ninety eight transoms on the bridge and I decided to fix down ten at a time.

The first transom was fixed in place, ensuring it was square to the girders, and allowed to set before commencing the others.

The spacing between transoms was made at eight scale inches using pieces of styrene strip.

transoms with spacers

 

After gluing a batch of transoms in place, some old Kadee uncoupling magnets are placed on top to keep things flat and using the bottle of Tarzan’s Grip as a weight, are left to cure for thirty minutes.

transoms with weight

 

A progress shot.

transoms on bridge

 

Transoms complete!

transoms complete

 

Next job is to make a jig for locating the tieplates on the transoms.

Cheers.

Chilcott’s Ck bridge transoms …

Hi all,

After the recent boost in my enthusiasm following the 45 class weathering, I decided to recommence work on the bridge over Chilcott’s Creek.

Following on from the weathering of the girders, I had been thinking of ways to attach the bridge transoms to the girders.

I have decided to use timber transoms, using Kappler Scale Lumber 10” x 6” stripwood, which were then cut to a length of nine scale feet.

These were then stained with some AIM Quick-Age weathering solution.

I had to come up with a way of locating the transoms on the girders and to ensure they are aligned centrally.

I decided to glue a small piece of stripwood on the underside of each transom so it would butt up to the inside edge of the girder.

I made a simple jig to hold a transom and to locate the piece of stripwood which was 6mm from one end.

Transom girder jig

Transom girder jig

Transoms

Transom in situ

 

The next stage is to glue the transoms to the girders and then to attach tieplates to the transoms.

Cheers.

Upper deck progress …

Hi all,

Since my last post, I have been busy with work on the upper deck above the Chilcott’s Ck to Kankool section.

To support the upper deck valance and future lighting, steel brackets were fabricated from second hand 20x20mm square tube, along with bracing made from thin steel plate.

A simple timber jig was made to hold the pieces of tube in place whilst the brace plate was attached using pop rivets.

support brackets

support brackets

 

 

 

 

 

 

These brackets were then screwed to the wall at strategic locations at wall studs.

After the initial installation of these brackets, I discovered a potential flaw in my design.  The two rivets fixing the brace plate to the vertical tube were shearing off with only minimal downward force being exerted at the outer end of the horizontal tube.  Now, I’m not sure whether it was actual rivet failure or what, so I decided to replace these rivets with a 3/16” bolt/spring washer/nut combination.  The result is a much stronger feeling bracket.

 

I had also decided to install a ceiling above each scene, as I didn’t fancy the idea of being able to see the open benchwork when looking along the scene from one end.  Once painted, I also think it will assist in spreading the light onto the scene.

The ceiling is made from sheets of 3.2mm MDF (2440x1220mm).  This required the installation of a timber sub-frame built around the steel brackets to allow for the securing of the ceiling.  2×1 DAR pine was used.

upper deck ceiling frame

upper deck ceiling frame

 

More framing was also installed in the corner to support the backscene and ceiling.

corner framing

 

A ceiling section was cut to size from the MDF and secured to the timber frame using Liquid Nails and small gauge countersunk screws.  The adhesive was also applied to the steel tube.  Temporary supports were used to hold the ceiling in place whilst fixing the screws.  After the screws were installed, extra temporary supports were fitted to force the ceiling against the steel tube whilst the adhesive cured.

ceiling in place with temporary supports

ceiling in place with temporary supports

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ceiling section in the corner proved to be quite tricky to cut to size, but by using accurate measurements, I ended up with a piece that fitted perfectly.

layout_construction_250

 

A couple more sections of backscene was also installed, including the piece in the corner.

more backscene

These sections of backscene have no need to extend completely down to the benchwork, as the track level will be around where the lower edge of the MDF is in the picture above, and the majority of scenery here behind the track will be hills covered with trees.

I also started playing around with how I will locate the Kankool lever frame into the fascia.  The picture below shows a mock-up of what I hope to achieve.

Kankool frame placement

The MDF immediately behind the frame will be the scene fascia and the curved piece in front is to indicate another section of fascia that will serve as ‘protection’ for the frame.  More on this later.

Cheers.

More backscene painting …

Just a quick post today.

Over the last week or so, I’ve done some more work on the backscene from Chilcott’s Ck to Kankool.  The MDF joins were patched, then a coat of acrylic sealer undercoat was applied.

I put a coat of my “sky blue” paint on the backscene this afternoon.

Cheers.

Chilcott’s Ck bridge assembly – Part III …

Hi all,

Over the last couple of days, I started weathering the Chilcott’s Ck bridge girders and piers.

To refresh the memory, this is the bridge and the weathering effect I am trying to achieve.  Even though the photo was taken in the last few years, and I am modelling 30+ years ago, I don’t think the weathering would be much less.

Chilcott's Ck bridge weathering

Following on from the previous post on the subject, the completed bridge spans had been painted with Krylon camouflage brown spray paint.  The plaster piers were also painted with the Krylon.  It is a dead flat matte paint that gives a good surface for the weathering powders to adhere to.

First, a bit of background on the Krylon paint and weathering powders.

At a local model railway exhibition that was held in Sydney earlier this year, a good mate was demonstrating his latest technique for weathering rollingstock.

Rather than me repeating it verbatim, have a read of this PDF as it outlines the technique in detail.  For those readers in Australia, I obtained my Conte crayons from an online art supplier, The Art Shop.

How Aaron sprayed the Krylon over a perfectly good model comes across as a bit drastic, but you can see the results.  The Krylon is purely there to provide a “keying” surface for the crayon powders.

So, both the bridge girders and piers were painted with the Krylon.  The bridge girders then got a good coating of a blue/grey colour then a light hint of various shades of browns to simulate the dirt on the bottom half of the girders.

The plaster piers were then attacked with a light grey colour as a base to get that weathered concrete colour.  Some white was also applied to lighten the grey in certain areas.  Then it was just a matter of using various shades of browns and black to get the streaking effect.

Below is the result so far.

Still have a bit to do, but probably not far off from being finished.  I’ve also been working on the abutments using the same techniques.  Below is a photo of progress so far.

Cheers.

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